But after enduring the sight of the clumsy thing for four long months, I pulled the top off. Underneath was a small sea of emerald green, like gemstones scattered across the dirt. My tiny farm of arugula had endured the winter, in spite of months of freezing temperatures and heavy snows.

I later learned that in most parts of the country, arugula will survive the winter, so long as it’s protected from extended periods of below-freezing temperatures and the weight of heavy snows that will break its tender stems. And it’s a fine choice of greens to grow in abundance: like broccoli and cauliflower, it’s a cruciferous vegetable, but easier to grow and more versatile than others. And like all crucifers, it contains healing compounds that protect against cancer and have anti-inflammatory properties in the body.

Next fall, with some preparation and help from the experts, we’ll make an adequate cover — one that doesn’t reveal my lack of expertise and experience. This year, we’re feeling pretty smug about having a full crop of greens in March. Here’s what we did with them:

Arugula, Sugar Snap and Green Pea Salad with Basil-Mint Dressing

Serves 4

The first time I had watercress, I was 16 and nowhere near a farm. I found myself in the midday bustle of Harrods, the famed London department store, just in time for afternoon tea. Along with various little pastries, we were served watercress sandwiches, daintily trimmed of their crusts and lavishly slathered with butter. They left me nearly swooning. The peppery bite and subtle crunch of watercress, the springy white bread and layers of butter — such a simple thing, it was, but a truly sublime combination to my unsophisticated palate. To this day, I can’t hear “watercress” without thinking “sandwich.”

Of course, this pungent peppery herb is inspiring in other uses as well: paired with asparagus in soups, puréed with pine nuts and garlic as pesto, or combined with milder greens in salads (legend says the early Romans served the first salad when they tossed watercress leaves with oil and vinegar). Like other members of the brassica family (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower), watercress is loaded with cancer-preventive compounds, and some studies point to its ability to reduce the risk of breast cancer. It’s in season right now and at its tender prime. Try it in this fresh spring recipes.

Watercress-Mango Salad with Cumin-Roasted Pecans

Serves 4

Cool, sweet mango is a good counterpart to the bold flavor of watercress; sweet and spicy pecans add a nice crunch. You can substitute cashews if you’d like, or add baby spinach for half of the arugula to soften the flavor.

1 tablespoon coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
Dash cayenne
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1 cup pecans
1 medium lime
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup coconut milk
1 bunch watercress, trimmed
3 cups arugula
1 large mango, peeled and cubed
1 medium papaya, seeded, peeled and cubed
1/2 pound jicama, peeled and cubed

1. Melt coconut oil in a small skillet over low heat. Add cumin, cayenne, salt and pepper, and stir to mix. Add pecans and toss to coat. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until lightly browned. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
2. While pecans are roasting, make dressing: squeeze lime into a small bowl, removing seeds. Whisk in honey. Whisk in coconut milk, season with salt, and set aside.
3. Combine watercress, arugula, mango, papaya and jicama in a medium bowl; drizzle with just enough dressing to lightly coat, and toss to mix. Divide salad among four individual plates.
4. To serve, scatter pecans over each salad and serve immediately, with additional dressing on the side, if desired.

This definitely not-Southern saute uses lots of garlic and harissa, a fiery-hot North African condiment made from peppers, garlic, oil and a wide variety of spices that have been pureed into a thick, rich sauce. The collards are a sturdy enough green to stand up to root vegetables; be sure to cut the roots in a very thin julienne for even, fast cooking.

Serves 4

1 large bunch collard greens
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 small parnsnips, cut into thin strips 2 inches long
4 small carrots, cut into thin strips 2 inches long
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 to 2 teaspoons harissa (substitute Asian red chili oil or paste)
Vegetable stock, as needed
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds

1. Remove and discard stems and center ribs of collard leaves. Wash leaves and pat dry; stack leaves, and cut lengthwise into 2-inch strips. Roll strips into a tight cylinder. Cut leaves crosswise to make 1/2-inch-wide strips. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil; add leaves and cook for 5 minutes, until just tender. Drain thoroughly.
2. While collards are cooking, heat olive oil over medium heat in a large saute pan or wok. Add parsnips and carrots, and toss to coat with oil.  Cook on medium, stirring frequently, until parsnips and carrots are crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Add garlic and harissa. Toss to coat vegetables with oil and harissa. Stir in collards, and add a tablespoon or two of stock as needed to allow harissa to coat vegetables. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer, until vegetables are just tender. Sprinkle with black sesame seeds and serve hot.

But there’s nothing frivolous about the health benefits of asparagus. It’s a clever plan of nature that asparagus emerges at a time when our bodies need it most. In several healing traditions, spring is the time of the liver. How elegant that asparagus contains glutathione (GSH), a potent antioxidant that’s especially important for liver detoxification. Asparagus is also rich in inulin, a so-called prebiotic that serves as a food source for beneficial bacteria, as well as anti-inflammatory compounds and a variety of antioxidant nutrients.

These asparagus recipes will send you sailing through spring with their easy, cool simplicity and power-packed cleansing properties.

Shaved Asparagus Salad with Lemon-Basil Dressing

Serves 4

Serving raw asparagus in thin shavings adds visual appeal; the bright dressing brings out the fresh, light flavor of asparagus. Ricotta salata is a crumbly, salty, white cheese made from pressed and dried fresh ricotta cheese. If you can’t find it, substitute goat feta for similar results.

2 pounds asparagus
1 lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh basil
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/4 cup ricotta salata cheese

1. Trim tough ends from asparagus. Using a vegetable peeler, hold each stalk over a large bowl and peel asparagus stalks into long ribbons, letting them drop into the bowl. Add remaining heads to bowl.
2. Grate 1 teaspoon of zest from the outside of the lemon and place in a small bowl. Squeeze half the lemon into the bowl; reserve the remaining lemon for another use. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Whisk in basil and season with salt and pepper. Add enough dressing to asparagus to lightly coat, and toss to mix. Let stand for 5 to 6 minutes to infuse flavors.
3. While asparagus stands, heat a small skillet on medium heat and toast pine nuts until golden and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes, tossing almost constantly. Transfer to a small plate and let cool. Add to salad, and toss to mix. Season with salt and black pepper.
4. To serve, divide salad between individual serving plates, top with ricotta salata cheese, and serve immediately.

Asparagus-Leek Soup with “Fried” Leeks

Serves 4

Baking the leeks with a light breading yields similar results to frying, with less oil. Be sure to pat them dry well, so they turn out crispy, not soggy. For the soup, use thin stalks of asparagus; they’re less fibrous, and yield a smoother soup.

4 medium leeks
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons flour or gluten-free flour
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium garlic clove, finely minced
2 small potatoes (about 1/2 pound), peeled and chopped small
4 cups vegetable broth
2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and chopped into 1-inch pieces
1/2 cup milk, almond milk or cream

1. Preheat oven to 425. Cut two of the leeks into thin strips, about 2 1/2 inches long (white and pale green parts). Pat dry thoroughly and transfer to a shallow bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and mix with your hands to coat leeks evenly with oil. Sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper, and mix again to coat with oil. Spread leeks in a single layer on a baking sheet and cook for 10 minutes, or until leeks are crispy and golden, stirring once during cooking. Remove from oven and let cool.
2. While leeks are baking, cut remaining two leeks crosswise (white and light green parts). Melt butter in a large pot and cook leeks until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook for 1 minute longer.
3. Add potatoes and 3 cups of the stock, bring to a boil, cover and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until potatoes are just tender. Add asparagus, cover and cook for 5 minutes longer, or until potatoes are soft.
4. Stir in milk, almond milk or cream.Transfer soup to a food processor, and puree in batches, adding remaining stock as needed to reach desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, divide soup between individual bowls; sprinkle with “fried” leeks and serve immediately.

Asparagus, Basil and Chickpea Salad

Serves 4

This simple salad recipe uses chickpeas for a protein-rich dish that can serve as a light meal in itself; substitute white beans for chickpeas and balsamic vinegar instead of the lemon juice for a richer flavor. You can also add a tiny bit of garlic and red pepper flakes for added zing.

1 pound asparagus
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Juice from 1/2 medium lemon
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh basil
3/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves
1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas
2 cups coarsely chopped baby spinach leaves
1 cup small grape tomatoes
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
Shaved Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Fill a medium bowl with ice and cold water. Cut asparagus on the diagonal into 1/8-inch thick slices. Blanch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then immediately transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water. Let cool, then drain and pat dry.
2. While asparagus is blanching, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice and basil in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside.
3. Add asparagus, basil leaves, chickpeas, spinach, tomatoes and onion to bowl. Toss to mix, and season with salt and pepper.
4. To serve, divide salad among four plates. Top with Parmesan cheese, if desired, and serve immediately.

Of course, this pungent peppery herb is inspiring in other uses as well: paired with asparagus in soups, puréed with pine nuts and garlic as pesto, or combined with milder greens in salads (legend says the early Romans served the first salad when they tossed watercress leaves with oil and vinegar). Like other members of the brassica family (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower), watercress is loaded with cancer-preventive compounds, and some studies point to its ability to reduce the risk of breast cancer. It’s in season right now and at its tender prime. Try it in some of these fresh spring recipes.

Watercress Soup with Creme Fraiche and Pine Nuts

Serves 4 to 6

It’s easy to make your own creme fraiche. For the best results, start with the freshest cream possible. You can also add baby spinach when you add the watercress, for a milder flavor.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 pound yellow or red potatoes, peeled and chopped
4 cups high-quality vegetable broth
4 cups coarsely chopped watercress leaves and slender stems
1/4 cup chopped basil leaves
1/4 cup homemade creme fraiche (see below)
4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook onion for 3 to 5 minutes, until softened. Add potatoes and broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped 1 pound yellow or red potatoes, peeled and chopped 4 cups high-quality vegetable broth 4 cups coarsely chopped watercress leaves and slender stems 1/4 cup chopped basil leaves 1/4 cup homemade creme fraiche 4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook onion for 3 to 5 minutes, until softened. Add potatoes and broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add watercress and basil, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Puree soup in batches (use care when pureeing hot liquids) until very smooth and creamy. Return to saucepan and stir in crème fraiche. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, divide between four individual serving bowls. Sprinkle with pine nuts, and serve immediately.
2. Add watercress and basil, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Puree soup in batches (use care when pureeing hot liquids) until very smooth and creamy. Return to saucepan and stir in crème fraiche. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. To serve, divide between four individual serving bowls. Sprinkle with pine nuts, and serve immediately.
4. To make crème fraiche: whisk together 1 cup heavy cream with 1 1/2 tablespoons buttermilk in a medium glass bowl. Place a plate on top of the bowl, setting it slightly ajar to allow air circulation. Let stand in a warm area for 12 to 24 hours, or until thickened and creamy. To store, transfer to a glass jar or container, cover and refrigerate for up to 7 days.

Cherry Tomato and Watercress-Pesto Bruschette

Serves 6 to 8

You can easily substitute gluten-free bread for this recipe; choose a sturdy variety, and cut large slices half or quarters before serving.

1 large, thick whole-grain baguette, sliced 1-inch thick on the diagonal
1/2 cup watercress leaves and slender stems
1/2 cup basil leaves
1/4 cup pine nuts (substitute macadamia nuts)
1 small or 1/2 medium garlic clove, minced
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 cups red, yellow and orange cherry tomatoes, quartered
3 cups baby arugula, chopped small
Shaved Pecorino-Romano cheese (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with foil.
2. Arrange bread slices on baking sheet and toast until golden, about 3 minutes. Turn slices over, and toast remaining side.
3. While bread is toasting, combine watercress, pine nuts, garlic and 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small food processor, and puree until finely chopped and mostly smooth, scraping down sides as needed. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Combine tomatoes and arugula in a medium bowl with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and stir to mix.
5. To serve, spread baguette slices with pesto. Divide tomato and arugula mixture between bread slices, top with cheese, if desired, and serve immediately.

Watercress-Mango Salad with Cumin-Roasted Pecans

Serves 4

Cool, sweet mango is a good counterpart to the bold flavor of watercress; sweet and spicy pecans add a nice crunch. You can substitute cashews if you’d like, or add baby spinach for half of the arugula to soften the flavor.

1 tablespoon coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
Dash cayenne
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1 cup pecans
1 medium lime
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup coconut milk
1 bunch watercress, trimmed
3 cups arugula
1 large mango, peeled and cubed
1 medium papaya, seeded, peeled and cubed
1/2 pound jicama, peeled and cubed

1. Melt coconut oil in a small skillet over low heat. Add cumin, cayenne, salt and pepper, and stir to mix. Add pecans and toss to coat. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until lightly browned. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
2. While pecans are roasting, make dressing: squeeze lime into a small bowl, removing seeds. Whisk in honey. Whisk in coconut milk, season with salt, and set aside.
3. Combine watercress, arugula, mango, papaya and jicama in a medium bowl; drizzle with just enough dressing to lightly coat, and toss to mix. Divide salad among four individual plates.
4. To serve, scatter pecans over each salad and serve immediately, with additional dressing on the side, if desired.

If you’re the average woman in your early 40s, you’ve probably spent the last 20 years or more counting calories, weighing yourself, following diets and generally obsessing about how you look. I do not for one minute believe the incredible power of the feminine energy was designed for something as small as this.

And this isn’t just about women: In a recent study, more than four in five men were anxious about their body image, and 38 percent of men said they would sacrifice at least a year of their life in exchange for a perfect body.[1] That’s very telling: Somewhere along the line, we’ve lost a sense of perspective, to the point where men say they’d die younger to look great in a Speedo.

Now, if your weight is a health issue, if it’s shortening your years or hampering your ability to enjoy your life, losing weight is a noble goal. Your body should be healthy, happy and comfortable to live in. But if your weight loss efforts are driven by a desire to look like the 20-year-old model (male or female) on the cover of the newsstand magazine, that’s another matter.

Losing weight is not your life’s work, and counting calories is not the call of your soul. You surely are destined for something much greater, much bigger, than shedding 20 pounds or tallying calories. What would happen if, instead of worrying about what you had for breakfast, you focused instead on becoming exquisitely comfortable with who you are as a person? Instead of scrutinizing yourself in the mirror, looking for every bump and bulge, you turned your gaze inward?

One of the first books on dieting was penned as early as 1810, by surgeon William Wadd. In the first of many editions of On Corpulence, or Obesity Considered as a Disease, he pointed out our growing “apprehension of corpulence,” and set forth recommendations for slimming.[2] It was a modern-world malady; from prehistoric times through the days of early settlers, much of the world’s population was obsessed with eating as it applied to survival, and starvation was a more common concern than slimming. Even now, as we measure our waists and condemn our thighs, close to a billion people go hungry every day, and hunger kills more people every year than AIDS, malaria and tuberculosis combined.[3][4]

One of my teachers used to ask “How does this serve you?” or “How does this serve the world?” I think that’s a useful question to ask about losing weight. How much time, mental energy and passion are you devoting to your dreams and goals, your loftiest vision for yourself? What would happen if all of us took all that energy we devote to counting calories and chasing a number on the bathroom scale, and channeled it toward to developing personal integrity, enhancing our spiritual connections and serving the world?

None of this is to say we can’t choose to shed some excess weight. But maybe we can do it with a sense of perspective — and direct the outcome to something greater.

In their well-known quote from Consuming Passions: The anthropology of eating, authors Peter Farb and George Armelagos note, “Food to a large extent is what holds a society together, and eating is closely linked to deep spiritual experiences.” Most religions and spiritual paths throughout history have some kind of ritual or rule related to food and eating. Fasting is one practice; in many spiritual traditions, the act of abstaining from food is thought to increase spiritual awareness, achieve the discipline necessary to resist temptations of the flesh, purify the body or atone for evil acts.

And when they do eat, devotees are mindful – even rigorous – in their choices. The Hindu dietary regimen, for example, thinks of food as belonging to one of three categories, depending upon its effect on the body and spirit. Tamasic food is overripe, spoiled, stale, processed or canned, and results in dullness, heaviness, sluggishness and lethargy. Rajasic food is spicy, pungent, hot or stimulating, and is related to overactivity, agitation and overstimulation. Sattvic foods – considered the most desirable – are pure, fresh and light, and leave us feeling refreshed, clear and alert. These (predictably enough) include fresh vegetables, fruits, whole grains, nuts, seeds and legumes. I think it’s moving and elegant that this ideal diet, the one mostly widely recommended for healing, was described in the Bhagavad Gita more than 2,000 years ago.

Other traditions have other rules. Buddhists aren’t necessarily vegetarians; Buddha was said to have instructed his disciples to accept whatever food was offered, and that to refuse an offering was to reject the giver (without helping the already-dead animal). Careful admonishments were given, however, to avoid eating carelessly: to eat mindlessly, or just for pleasure, is to be moved by selfish temptations.

In Judaism, kashrut is the set of laws defining appropriate foods (in English, it’s called kosher), but other, more subtle, spiritual rules also apply. Traditional Jewish teachings believe the body is a gift for which we are responsible; and on a very practical level, an early book of Jewish ethics writes, “It is not possible to understand and become wise in Torah and mitzvot when you are hungry or sickly or when one of your limbs hurts.”

So these are all interesting theories. But what exactly, as spiritual folk, do we eat? I asked two retreat centers on the Front Range to share some of their recipes with us, and they graciously agreed. So, for you, two renditions of true soul food.

Mediterranean Red Lentil and Spinach Stew

Serves 6 to 8

This lovely soup recipe exemplifies Shoshoni’s (www.shoshoni.org) simple but beautiful cooking. Reprinted with permission from their book, Yoga Kitchen: Vegetarian Recipes from the Shoshoni Yoga Retreat, by Faith Stone and Rachael Guidry (Summertown, TN: Book Publishing Company, 2004). Get the book for more inspiration!

2 tablespoons ghee
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon ginger, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons cumin, ground
2 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons coriander, ground
1 teaspoon cinnamon, ground
5 cups water
2 cups butternut squash, peeled and diced
1 cup dry red lentils
1 cup red bell pepper, diced
1 stalk celery, sliced
1 bunch spinach, washed, stemmed, and finely chopped
1/2 cup cilantro, chopped
1/4 cup currants or pitted dates, chopped
3 tablespoons Bragg liquid aminos or soy sauce
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 to 2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1. Heat the ghee in a saucepan. Add the onion and saute until well browned and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and saute for 2 minutes. Stir in the cumin, paprika, coriander, and cinnamon. Add the water, squash, lentils, red bell peppers, and celery. Simmer uncovered until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Stir in the spinach, cilantro, currants, Bragg liquid aminos, vinegar, salt to taste, and cayenne. Simmer just long enough for the spinach to wilt. Serve hot.

Sunrise Ranch Winter Vegetable Soup

Serves 12

Joyce Karchere, executive chef at Sunrise Ranch (www.SunriseRanch.org), makes these from a combination of organic root vegetables grown on their farm; apple juice made from Sunrise Ranch apples adds a little sweetness that lifts the earthy blend. (All other ingredients are also organic, needless to say.)

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
7 1/2 cups combined equal amounts of carrots, winter squash, and yams (peeled and chopped)
3/4 cups onion, chopped
1 tablespoon peeled, sliced ginger-root
1 1/4 cups apple juice
2 tablespoons organic orange juice concentrate
1/2 tablespoon ground coriander
Pinch each of allspice and nutmeg
5 cups coconut milk (or 2.5 cups vegetable stock and 2.5 cups coconut milk)

1. Heat olive oil in a large pan. Saute carrots, squash, yams, onion and ginger for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in juices and spices and enough coconut milk and/or stock to cover. Simmer until vegetables are soft, 25 to 30 minutes.

2. Transfer soup to a food processor and puree until smooth. Return to the pot, add the coconut milk and gently reheat. Season to taste with sea salt. Serve immediately, with millet patties, or hummus and pita.

Lisa Turner is a food writer, intuitive eating coach, and cooking and nutrition instructor at Bauman College of Nutrition and Culinary Arts in Boulder. Visit her websites at www.TheHealthyGourmet.net and www.InspiredEating.com.

Check out Lisa’s New Inspired Eats iPhone app featuring hundreds of original recipes–from creative appetizers and salads to clean, beautiful desserts–for every dietary choice.

But after enduring the sight of the clumsy thing for four long months, I pulled the top off. Underneath was a small sea of emerald green, like gemstones scattered across the dirt. My tiny farm of arugula had endured the winter, in spite of months of freezing temperatures and heavy snows.

I later learned that in most parts of the country, arugula will survive the winter, so long as it’s protected from extended periods of below-freezing temperatures and the weight of heavy snows that will break its tender stems. And it’s a fine choice of greens to grow in abundance: like broccoli and cauliflower, it’s a cruciferous vegetable, but easier to grow and more versatile than others. And like all crucifers, it contains healing compounds that protect against cancer and have anti-inflammatory properties in the body.

Next fall, with some preparation and help from the experts, we’ll make an adequate cover — one that doesn’t reveal my lack of expertise and experience. This year, we’re feeling pretty smug about having a full crop of greens in March. Here’s what we did with them:

Arugula Salad with Fig and Thyme Vinaigrette
Serves 4
2 tablespoons Quick Fig Jam (see recipe below) or fig jam of your choice
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup very coarsely chopped walnuts
8 cups loosely packed baby arugula leaves
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced crosswise
Shaved Manchego cheese

1. Combine fig jam, balsamic vinegar and thyme leaves in a small bowl, and stir until smooth. Whisk in olive oil. (Dressing should be fairly thick; add a teaspoon or two of water, if desired, to thin.) Season with salt and pepper.

2. Heat a small pan over medium heat, and toast walnuts, tossing and stirring frequently, until just golden, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.

3. Combine arugula, onion, walnuts and cheese in a large bowl, and toss to mix. Add enough dressing to lightly coat salad, and toss again. Divide salad between four individual plates, and serve immediately.

Quick Fig Jam
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
1 cup chopped dried figs
1/2 cup apple juice
1 cup water, divided
2 teaspoons honey (optional)

1. Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until mixture is thick and sticky, but still moist. Remove lid and cook for 5 more minutes, or until water is evaporated.

2. Transfer mixture to a small food processor and process into a thick paste. Using a rubber spatula, scrape mixture out and transfer to a bowl.

3. Serve warm, or refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours and serve chilled. Store, refrigerated, in a glass jar for up to two weeks.

Arugula-Peach Salad with Pistachios
Serves 4

1/2 cup unsalted raw pistachios
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 small shallot, finely minced
2 tablespoons finely minced basil leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 cups packed baby arugula leaves
1/2 of a small red onion, very thinly sliced crosswise into rings
2 large, firm peaches, pitted, cut into quarters, and thinly sliced crosswise

1. Heat a small skillet over medium heat and toast pistachios for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant. Set aside to cool. Whisk together vinegar, shallot and basil in a small bowl. Whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Combine arugula, onions and peaches in a large bowl. Add dressing and toss to mix. Season salad to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, divide between four individual plates, top with pistachios, and serve immediately.

Arugula, Sugar Snap and Green Pea Salad with Basil-Mint Dressing
Serves 4

6 cups baby arugula leaves
1/2 pound sugar snap peas, trimmed
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons minced basil leaves
1 tablespoon minced mint leaves
1 cup frozen green peas, thawed to room temperature
3 cups baby arugula leaves or baby spinach leaves

1. Boil one inch of water in a medium pot with a steamer basket. Steam sugar snaps for 3 to 4 minutes, until crisp-tender. Remove from heat and spread on a plate to cool.
2. While peas are steaming, whisk olive oil, lemon juice, shallot, basil and mint together in a small bowl.  Season with salt and pepper.
3. Combine cooled sugar snaps with arugula and green peas in a large bowl. Add dressing, and toss to mix. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, divide salad between individual plates, and serve immediately.

The problem with collards cooked this way is that no one north of the Carolinas will eat them. We know too much about enzymes in vegetables, saturated fat, and the dangers of excessive salt intake. Happily for us, collards are one of the more versatile greens. They’re sturdy enough to stand up to longer cooking times in stews and bean dishes, but you can just as easily shred them and sauté them with garlic and olive oil. And the broad, sturdy leaves are ideal for rolling up any variety of fillings.

Try some of these fresh, faster-cooking ways with collards. And should you ever find yourself craving them Southern style, send me a message and I’ll pass along the recipe — and I’ll never tell a soul.

Collard Rolls with Red Lentils and Pine Nuts
Makes 8 to 10 rolls

The broad, sturdy nature of collard leaves makes them ideal for rolling. To make rolling easier, before cooking leaves, place each one rib side up and, holding a sharp knife horizontal to the cutting board, shave the center rib down slightly. Look for large, wide leaves; buy an extra bunch of collards, since you’ll likely tear a few during rolling.

1 cup quinoa
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons curry powder
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 cup homemade or high-quality stock
1 can coconut milk
1 cup red lentils
2 to 4 tablespoons pine nuts (substitute chopped macadamia nuts)
8 to 10 large, intact and unblemished collard leaves (about 1 bunch)

1. Rinse quinoa thoroughly, then strain through a fine mesh strainer or sieve.  Heat a large, heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add quinoa and toast for 1 minute, stirring constantly, or until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

2. In the same pot, heat oil over medium heat and sauté onions for 3 to 4 minutes, until just tender. Add curry and garlic  and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

3. Add 1 cup of the stock, coconut milk, red lentils and toasted quinoa.  Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally; add remaining 1/2 cup stock if needed during cooking. Cook until lentils and quinoa are tender but not mushy, and liquid is absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in pine nuts. Remove from heat and let cool enough to handle during rolling.

4. While lentils and quinoa are cooking, cut and discard stems form collards. Drop leaves into a large pot of boiling water and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until pliable but still bright green. While collards are cooking, fill a large bowl with ice and water. Remove cooked collards from boiling water with tongs and drop into ice water for 30 seconds to stop cooking and set color. Remove from ice bath and pat dry thoroughly with paper towels.

5. To assemble rolls: place one leaf on a flat surface, with the inside surface of the leaf showings. Cut off lower inch of leaf. Mound about 1/3 cup of quinoa mixture onto lower third of the leaf. Fold bottom edge of leaf over mixture, and fold sides of leaves in to cover mixture. Starting at the bottom edge, roll leaf tightly to encase filling completely.

6. Arrange, seam side down, on a serving plate. Repeat with remaining leaves. Reserve any leftover filling for later use. Serve immediately.

Many years later, I encountered Brussels sprouts as a side dish, roasted with hazelnuts and butter. They were so fragrant and richly caramelized that I dared to try again. My first bite made me forget my former betrayal, and they’ve been a celebrated guest at my Farm Food dinners ever since.

Rule number one with Brussels sprouts: don’t boil them whole. By the time the core is cooked through, the delicate leaves on the outside become soggy and unpleasantly soft; and, like all crucifers, overcooking can damage the disease-preventing compounds and elicit a sulfuric odor. (But don’t eat Brussels sprouts raw in large quantities, either; like all crucifers, they contain compounds that can interfere with normal thyroid function. In small amounts and occasionally, raw crucifers are okay for most people.)

The best way to cook Brussels sprouts is to shred them or remove their leaves, so they cook quickly, or halve or quarter them and sauté. if you want to cook them whole, choose smaller sprouts and use a dry-cooking method like roasting, so they don’t get soggy.

Brussels Sprouts Leaves with Smoked Paprika
Serves 4
1 pound Brussels sprouts
1 to 2 tablespoons refined coconut oil-
1/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
2 garlic cloves, pressed in a garlic press
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
Dash hot paprika, to taste
Shaved Pecorino-Romano (optional)

1. Trim stem ends from Brussels sprouts and remove leaves, transferring them to a large bowl; discard cores or reserve for another use.

2. Heat coconut oil in a large skillet over medium heat and saute shallots and Brussels sprout leaves for 2 to 3 minutes, until lightly browned.

3. Add garlic and paprika, and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, stirring. Add 1/2 tablespoon water, cover and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until leaves are tender. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, divide between individual plates, top with cheese if desired, and serve immediately.

Shredded Sprouts Salad with Apricots and Almonds
Serves 4

1 pound Brussels sprouts
8 to 12 dried apricots
1/2 cup slivered almonds
2 tablespoons peach or apricot preserves
1 small lime, juiced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup crumbled Stilton cheese (optional)

1. Remove and discard browning or old outer leaves from Brussels sprouts; trim and discard bottom stems. Halve sprouts lengthwise, then slice them crosswise into thin shreds. Transfer to a large bowl. Using sharp kitchen shears, cut apricots into thin slivers and add to bowl. Add almonds, and toss to mix.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together apricot preserves and lime juice; whisk in olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle over Brussels sprouts mixture and toss to mix. Let stand for 5 minutes, and season with salt and pepper.

3. To serve, divide salad between four individual plates. Top with cheese, if desired, and serve immediately.

Pan-roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Tarragon
Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves, minced
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 1/2 pounds Brussels Sprouts
1 small shallot, thinly sliced

1. Whisk together 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, lemon juice, zest, mustard and tarragon. Season to taste with sea salt and white pepper.

2. Cut stems from Brussels sprouts and remove outer leaves. Remove the core of each with a v-shaped cut. In a large sauté pan, heat remaining 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add sprouts and sauté just until they begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add shallots and cook for 1 minute, stirring.

3. Add vinaigrette, and toss to mix all. Reduce heat to low and cover. After 2 minutes, add 1/4 cup water, cover, and cook for 6 to 9 minutes on low, until Brussels sprouts are tender, stirring occasionally to mix sprouts with sauce. To serve, arrange on a platter or divide between four individual plates, and serve warm.