Two weeks ago, after a premature snowstorm that felled a giant cottonwood in my yard and turned my tomatoes into a mushy mess, my kale thrived beneath a makeshift hoop house and a heavy blanket of snow. Thus inspired, we fortified the garden cover, and now have a tiny farm of chard, spinach, arugula, escarole, cabbage, chives and half a dozen herbs.

Most local farms still offer kale, and you’ll find several varieties in the markets and grocery stores. Tuscan kale—also called Lacinato, dinosaur kale or Cavalo Nero—has a nubby, rugged texture that holds up especially well in stews and roasting. Curly varieties are tender enough for quick sautéing and raw salads, and Red Russian kale, sturdy as a weed, has green-purple leaves that add color and antioxidants.. All varieties of kale are types of crucifers (like cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts), and are rich in compounds that help prevent cancer, curb inflammation, and may reduce cholesterol. These recipes use three different varieties of kale, but you can generally substitute one for another. And while black truffle salt doesn’t grow on any farm I know of, it’s still a lovely addition to this early winter meal.

White Bean, Carrot and Kale Stew
Serves 6

Red Russian kale is outstanding in the hearty stew, but Tuscan kale is a beautiful stand-in as well. This simple classic soup is one of our winter staples; we used heirloom carrots in three different colors, which yielded beautiful results. Peeled and cubed pumpkin or winter squash are other delicious seasonal additions. You can also add pasta shells or orzo toward the end of cooking time, or stir in pieces of day-old bread for a ribolitta-style soup.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
6 cups homemade or high-quality chicken or vegetable stock
3/4 pound white beans, soaked overnight
1 large sprig rosemary
1 3-inch chunk of Parmigianno-Regianno cheese rind
1 large bunch of kale
4 large or 5 medium carrots
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Heat olive oil in a medium soup pot. Saute onion for 2–3 minutes, until just softened; add garlic and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring. Add broth, beans, rosemary sprig and cheese, if using. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, partly covered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until beans are tender but not mushy.

2. While the soup simmers, cut stems and center ribs from kale, and cut leaves into small pieces. If carrots are very slender, cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. If carrots are thicker, cut into a medium (1/2-inch) dice.

3. When beans are nearly tender, stir in kale, carrots and red pepper flakes. Cook for 10 minutes more, until carrots and kale are tender. Fish out the rosemary and cheese rind, and season the soup to taste with salt and coarse black pepper. To serve, ladle into bowls, drizzle with additional olive oil, and shower with chopped parsley. Serve hot.

Kale, Apple and Pear Salad with Honey-Spiced Walnuts
Serves 4

Massaging the kale with oil, salt and acid before serving soften the aggressive flavor and texture. This is especially good with  fig balsamic vinegar. You can also use tamari-roasted almonds in place of the honey-spiced nuts, and add a handful of currants or chopped dried figs.

1/2 cup honey
1/4  teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup walnuts
1 large or 2 small bunches curly kale
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons high-quality balsamic vinegar
1 firm, medium apple
1 ripe but firm pear
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1/4 cup crumbled Stilton cheese (optional)

1. Lay a sheet of parchment paper on a flat surface. Combine honey, cayenne pepper, cumin, black pepper and cinnamon in  a small pot; cook over low heat until honey is thickened and dark golden. Stir in walnuts until completely coated. Transfer to parchment, spreading in a single layer, and breaking up to separate nuts. Let cool completely.

2. Remove stems and center ribs from kale, and discard. Cut leaves crosswise into thin strips; place in a medium bowl. Drizzle kale with olive oil and vinegar; lightly sprinkle with salt. Massage with your hands to coat leaves and let stand for 5 minutes.

3. Core and dice apple and pear, and add to bowl with kale, along with shallot. Add candied nuts, and toss to mix. To serve, divide salad between four individual plates, sprinkle with cheese if desired, and serve immediately.

Tuscan Kale Chips with Black Truffle Salt
Serves 4

Roasted kale leaves are a fast, appealing way to cook kale; Tuscan kale is especially nice, since the leaves are flat and cook more evenly. Vary the spices—chipotle powder, garlic or cumin are nice additions—and serve them upright in a squat, heavy glass for a novel presentation.

1 bunch of Tuscan kale (also called dinosaur or Lacinato kale)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Coarsely ground black pepper
Black truffle salt or sea salt

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Separate leaves of kale and trim the bottom inch off stems. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic; rub oil into leaves with your hands. Arrange in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Roast for 5 to 7 minutes, until leaves are crispy, being careful not to burn them. Remove from oven and immediately sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Arrange kale leaves in two squat, heavy glasses, such as a rocks cocktail glass, or arrange on a large serving platter. Serve immediately.

But please do not be sad if your onion makes you cry; cutting into one breaks cell walls in the plant, releasing sulfur compounds that sting your eyes and stimulate the flow of tears. In the true fashion of a double-edged sword, those irritating compounds also protect against cancer, heart disease and inflammation. If you are especially sensitive, freeze them for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing, to slow the release of those volatile compounds.  Then make friends again, with these recipes that cast onions in their rightful starring role.

Caramelized Onion and Potato Soup with Truffled Croutons
Serves 6

This soup is extremely easy, but requires a little time to fully caramelize the onions; don’t hurry this step, or you’ll miss the deep, rich flavors. Make a salad, prepare the croutons and set the table while the onions caramelize. Use a hand-held immersion blender for pureeing the soup to control the smoothness (I like mine with just a little texture). You can make this soup as a vegan dish; substitute olive oil for the butter and use vegetable stock, and skip the cream at the end. The soup so rich and dense, I don’t always add cream; it’s really just gilding the lily, but there’s no crime in that either.

2 tablespoon butter (substitute olive oil)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 large onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup white wine (substitute 1/2 cup stock)
5 to 6 cups homemade or high-quality chicken or vegetable stock
1 celery stalk, chopped small
3 large Yukon Gold or red potatoes, diced
1 large sprig thyme
1/2 cup cream (optional)
1 tablespoon truffle oil
1/2 baguette, thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 tablespoons parsley

1. Heat butter and olive oil in a large soup pot. Add onions and cook over medium-low heat for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden-brown caramelized.

2. Add wine or stock and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan with a wooden spoon. Add 5 cups stock, celery, potatoes and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, partly covered, about 25 minutes until potatoes are soft. Remove and dispose of thyme sprig (compost it), then puree soup until thick and creamy but not completely smooth. Add remaining stock as needed to thin, and add cream if desired. Season with sea salt and white pepper.

3. While potatoes are cooking, preheat broiler to high. Arrange baguette slices on a baking pan and drizzle lightly with truffle oil. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and black pepper and broil until golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with parsley.

4. To serve, divide soup between individual cups or bowls and float 2 or 3 croutons on top. Serve immediately.

Roasted Stuffed Onions with Fiery Rouille
Serves 6
This is such a nice way to use day-old or slightly stale bread, but you can also substitute brown rice, buckwheat, barley or quinoa. It’s also an original dish for parties and appetizers; double the recipe, and do some pre-prep: the day before cooking, hollow the onions and store in an air-tight Pyrex container in the refrigerator. Make the filling in advance, too, then stuff the onions just before roasting.

4 small red onions
4 small yellow onions
2 cups cooked buckwheat, quinoa or brown rice
1/2 cup homemade or high-quality stock
1 large egg
¼ pound crimini mushrooms, chopped
2 cups baby spinach leaves, chopped small
3  garlic cloves,  minced
2 tablespoons  chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon each sea salt and pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
Grated Asiago cheese

1.    Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

2.    Cut a 1/2-inch slice from the top of each onion. Trim a little bit off the bottom, just enough to make the bottom flat. Using a melon baller, scoop out the center of the onion and chop it up. Set aside. Drop the onion shells into a pot of salted boiling water, and cook for 10 minutes, until just tender. Drain and set aside.

3.    Chop enough of the reserved onion to make 1 cup (save the rest for adding to soups and stews). Heat oil in a large skillet and fry mushrooms and onions for 5 minutes, until onion is golden. Remove from heat and combine in a bowl with remaining ingredients. Arrange in a baking dish, drizzle with olive oil,  and bake at 400 for 25 minutes, until tender.  Remove from oven and serve with Fiery Rouille on the side.

Fiery Rouille
Makes 1 cup

Large pinch of saffron threads (about 1/4 teaspoon)
1 large piece of rustic or gluten-free bread, toasted deep brown
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne*
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1.    Combine saffron and 3 tablespoons of boiling water in a small bowl, and let stand for 10 minutes.
2.    Process bread in a food processor, to make small crumbs. Add to saffron water and let stand for 5 minutes; the mixture should be thick and pasty, but not dry; add an additional spoonful of water, or as needed.
3.    While the bread is soaking, combine garlic and salt in a mortar and pestle, and mash into a thick paste. Add red pepper flakes or cayenne, and mash together until smooth.
4.    Add bread crumb paste to garlic mixture, and mash together until smooth.  Mash and stir in olive oil, adding the oil in a slow, steady stream. Stir in parsley and adjust salt. Store in a glass jar, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

The varieties number in the dozens, from exotic cultivars like Magic Molly and Caribe to the more commonplace red potatoes and Yukon gold, but all are high in antioxidants, vitamin C and potassium, with a decent amount of fiber. Blue varieties also contain anthocyanins, the same antioxidants in blueberries. And though sweet potatoes are only distant cousins, they have the same qualities of grounding and comforting, and they’re rich in carotenes and fiber.

Like most things understated, potatoes need only a bit of coaxing to bring out their charms. Mash them with butter and sea salt to enjoy their subtly sweet creaminess, rub them with oil and roast them to develop a rich caramelized crust with a tender center, or marry them with vegetables and spices that highlight their earthy warmth. Suddenly, the potato can be downright sophisticated.

Red Potato, Spinach and Mushroom Hash with Poached Eggs
Serves 4

Swap finely chopped kale for the spinach, increase the garlic and add a minced chipotle pepper before roasting, for a more robust dish. You can also skip the poached eggs and serve these with most any meal; they’re excellent as a side dish with roast chicken.

3 large red potatoes, cut in a medium dice
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon oregano, plus more for garnish
1/4 teaspoon cumin
Dash cayenne
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 pound crimini mushrooms, sliced
1 small onion, chopped small
8 cups baby spinach, chopped small
4 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped chives

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.

2. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil.  Add potatoes and boil until just beginning to get tender, 7 to 10 minutes.  Drain well and spread onto a baking sheet; let cool. Toss with pepper, salt, oregano, cumin, cayenne, garlic and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add mushrooms and onions, and toss to mix. Spread on baking sheet again, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until potatoes are crispy.

3. When the potatoes are almost done, remove from oven and add chopped spinach. Return to oven to continue cooking. In a large saute pan, bring 4 inches of water and 1 tablespoon vinegar or 2 teaspoons sea salt to a low simmer. Crack one egg into a cup and gently lower the egg into the water.  Repeat with remaining eggs, being careful not to crowd pan, and poach at a low simmer until just set, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

4. To serve, divide potato and spinach mixture between four plates. Top each with a poached egg.  Garnish with chives, and serve immediately.

Roasted Sweet Potato Soup with Adobo Cream
Serves 4 to 6

Peeling the potatoes makes the finished soup velvety and smooth, but it’s not necessary; leave them on, if you’d prefer. You can vary the spices considerably in this recipe, to make it subtly smoky-hot or fiery. Serve it with warm corn tortillas and slices of avocado, if they’re available in your area.

3 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
4 large garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a knife
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small canned chipotle pepper, seeded and chopped
6 to 7 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
1 to 2 teaspoons adobo sauce from canned chipotle peppers, or to taste
1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.

2. Combine sweet potatoes, onions and garlic on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with sea salt and pepper, and toss to mix. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender.

3. In a large, heavy pot, combine roasted vegetables, chipotle pepper and 6 cups of the stock; bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, or until sweet potatoes are very soft.  While soup is cooking, combine sour cream and adobo sauce in a small bowl and mix to blend.

4. Purée soup in batches in a food processor, adding more stock as needed. Return soup to pot and warm through, if necessary. To serve, divide soup between four individual bowls. Sprinkle with cilantro and top with adobo-sour cream mixture. Serve immediately.

Cauliflower-Potato Mash with Arugula and Shallots
Serves 4 to 6

Cauliflower adds a subtle nuttiness and lightness to the earthy, dense potato; you can also add turnips for more sweetness and flavor. You can peel the potatoes for a more finished-looking end result, but it’s not necessary; I personally like leaving the skins on, for added nutrition and a more rustic look. Cooking the vegetables in stock adds volumes of flavor, but you can just as easily use water. You can also make this a vegan offering; just swap almond milk for the cow’s milk, or add additional stock to get the texture you want.

1/2 pound yukon gold potatoes
1 small head cauliflower (about 2 pounds)
Vegetable stock
2  tablespoons  olive oil
1/4 cup minced shallot
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup arugula, finely chopped
1/4 cup half-and-half or milk
Hazelnut oil (optional)

1. Chop potatoes; core cauliflower and cut into florets. In a large soup pot, combine potatoes, cauliflower and stock to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain vegetables, reserving stock, and set both aside.

2. Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and cook shallots and garlic until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add potatoes and  cauliflower, and stir to mix with shallots and garlic, scraping up bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in arugula. Add 1/4 cup half-and-half,  milk or reserved stock as needed to make the mixture creamy, and season with sea salt and pepper.

3. To serve, divide between individual bowls. Float a spoonful of hazelnut oil, if using, on top of each serving, and serve immediately.

But then the snow came, and the holidays, and once again we forgot about them. Until last week, when, armed with a spade and big wicker basket, I dug up another dozen, and wondered why I’d waited so long. Some of the carrots were purple, yellow, and red — the colors carrots were for years before selective breeding rendered them the uniform orange we now know. I was instantly smitten. Apparently, I’m not alone: the World Carrot Museum hosts a site for carrot lovers that includes fascinating carrot history and trivia (apparently, researchers found that you can make carrots grow faster when you send them love, which makes sense to me). And International Carrot Day is celebrated every April 4. I especially enjoy the pointy orange costumes the carrot lovers wear on that site.

Even if you’re not so committed in your relationship with carrots, you’ll do well to include more of them in your diet. They’re rich in vitamins, minerals, and both alpha and beta carotene (antioxidants that protect against heart disease and cancer), and they contain a compound called falcarinol that reduces the risk of colon cancer. You can have your own version of a carrot celebration with these party-worthy recipes; the costumes are optional.

Carrot-Chipotle Soup with Carrot Top and Cilantro Pesto

Serves 4 to 6

This simple soup gains appeal from the resourceful pesto that uses carrot tops. If you can’t find carrots with their tops still attached, you can substitute parsley, and if pine nuts are too pricey, use walnuts or macadamias. Even pepitas will do in a pinch, but you’ll lose the rich flavor. Add a bit of crème fraîche to the soup while you’re puréeing it for a creamier texture, if you’d like.

Serves 4

1 pound carrots with tops
2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 to 1 teaspoon cumin
3 cups homemade or high-quality stock, plus more if needed
1 small chipotle pepper, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
1/4 cup olive oil
Crème fraîche, for garnish (optional)

1. Remove carrot tops and wash well; set aside. Scrub and chop carrots, and set aside.
2. Heat oil in a medium saucepan. Cook onion for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender. Add garlic and cumin, and cook for 1 minute. Add carrots, stock and chipotle, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes until carrots are soft.
3. Puree soup in batches until very smooth, adding additional stock if needed to thin to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper, and return to pot to keep warm.
4. Chop reserved carrot tops and combine in a small food processor with cilantro. Pulse to chop and mix the greens together, then add pine nuts, and chop again. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in olive oil and process until incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. To serve, divide soup between four bowls and garnish with a dollop of pesto and creme fraiche, if desired. Serve immediately.

Heirloom Carrot Salad with Currants and Orange Blossom Water

Serves 4

This variation on Moroccan carrot salad uses raw carrots cut into long, thin ribbons instead of grated, for a more appealing texture. I’ve added currants for sweetness, but you can use finely chopped dates for a more traditional approach.

1 pound heirloom carrots in different colors, scrubbed well
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup minced fresh mint
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water
2 tablespoons dried currants
Chopped toasted almonds, for garnish

1. Cut off carrot tops and compost, or use in pesto (see recipe). Scrub carrots well with a vegetable brush, and very lightly peel them if needed. Set aside.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon and orange juice, garlic, parsley, mint and orange blossom water. Hold one carrot over the bowl and, using a vegetable peeler, peel off long thin strips into the bowl of dressing. Repeat with remaining carrots. Add currants and toss to mix. Season salad to taste with sea salt and white pepper, and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least two hours and up to one day. Serve chilled or at room temperature, sprinkled with chopped almonds.

Cumin-Roasted Baby Carrots

Serves 4

This recipe works best with very slim baby carrots; use those that are about as big around as your pinky finger, or halve thicker ones lengthwise. To ensure consistent cooking, make sure all the carrots are of similar size. You can also add a couple parsnips, cut into finger-thick slices. Serve them hot, tossed with minced fresh herbs (cilantro, parsley, and tarragon are nice).

1 pound baby carrots
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. Toss carrots in a bowl with the olive oil, sea salt, pepper and cumin seeds. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan, and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly browned and tender. Season with salt and pepper if needed, and serve hot.

Serves 4 to 6

* 1 to 2 tablespoon sesame oil
* 1 small yellow onion, chopped small
* 3 garlic cloves, minced
* 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger root
* 1/2 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
* 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
* 4 cups homemade or high-quality vegetable or chicken stock
* 2 pounds zucchini, chopped small
* 1 cup fresh, blanced green peas or frozen green peas, thawed
* 2 cups sliced shiitake mushroom caps
* 2 tablespoons melted coconut oil
* 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
* Cayenne pepper to taste
* Fresh minced chives for garnish

1. Heat sesame oil in a 3-quart pot over medium-low heat. Saute onion for 5 to 7 minutes, until softened and golden. Add ginger, garlic and spices, and cook for 1 minute, stirring.
2. Add stock and zucchini; bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, partly covered, for 15 minutes, until zucchini is soft and liquid is slightly reduced. Add peas and cook for 5 minutes longer, until peas are warmed through.
3. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Arrange mushrooms in a small pile on a baking sheet and pour oil over. Toss with your hands to mix, then spread in a single layer (use a big enough pan to avoid overlapping mushrooms; if they’re crowded, they’ll steam instead of getting crispy). Sprinkle paprika evenly over mushrooms, then roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until crispy.
4. When soup is done cooking, transfer to a blender and process until smooth and creamy. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding cayenne pepper to taste.
5. Divide soup between four individual bowls. Sprinkle tops of each bowl with roasted shiitakes, garnish with chive, and serve hot.

Serves 2

* 1 pound fresh figs, stemmed and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
* 1 tablespoon honey
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
* 1/2 lemon
* 1 sprig fresh thyme
* 4 thin slices rustic whole grain bread or boule
* Fig balsamic vinegar (or regular balsamic vinegar)
* 2 ounces Manchego cheese, thinly sliced
* 1/2 cup baby arugula leaves

1. To make jam: In a small saucepan, combine figs, honey, vanilla and a generous squeeze of lemon. Add thyme sprig. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer, partly covered, stirring frequently and mashing figs against the side of the pan as they soften. Keep a watchful eye to prevent burning, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until thickened. Remove and discard thyme and let jam cool to room temperature. Transfer to a glass jelly jar and store in refrigerator for up to 1 week.

2. To make sandwiches: arrange bread slices on a work surface and spread with jam. Sprinkle two of the bread slices with balsamic vinegar, if using. Layer with cheese and arugula, and top with remaining bread slices.

3. Heat oil in a medium skillet and grill sandwiches for 2 to 3 minutes on one side, until golden. Flip sandwiches, cover pan, and grill on remaining side for 3 to 4 minutes, until bread is golden, cheese is melting and jam is hot and bubbly.

4. To serve, transfer sandwiches to individual plates. Cut in half on the diagonal, and serve hot, with pear and Honeycrisp apple slices.

This is the last hurrah for the squash in my garden. Adding a spoonful of bright green pistou–like pesto, but without the cheese–brightens the dish and adds a garlicky kick. You can add a small, thin-skinned potato during cooking (add it when you add the squash) for a thick, velvety texture without the cream.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup Vidalia or other sweet onion, or yellow onion
2 pounds yellow squash, zucchini or a combination of the two, chopped
3 to 4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup shelled pistachios (unsalted)
1/2 cup basil leaves
1 large garlic clove
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Heat oil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat and cook onion for 3 to 4 minutes, until just tender. Add squash and stir to coat with oil. Cook for 5 minutes, until softened.
2. Add 3 cups of the stock, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, partly covered, until squash is very tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
3. While soup is cooking, make Pistachio Pistou: combine pistachios, basil and garlic in a small food processor and process into a thick paste. With motor running, drizzle in olive oil until incorporated, scraping down sides of food processor as needed. Transfer to a small bowl, season to taste with sea salt, and set aside.
4. When soup is done, remove from heat and puree in batches until very smooth and creamy, adding remaining stock as needed to reach desired consistency. Season to taste with sea salt and white pepper.
5. To serve, divide soup between 4 to 6 bowls, top each with a spoonful of Pistachio Pistou, and serve immediately.

This is a great way to use the last of the tomatoes in the garden. To make the tomato puree for this recipe, plunge whole tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds, remove with a slotted spoon, and drop into an ice bath to cool. Skins will slip right off; then just seed tomatoes and puree the flesh in a food processor. A hint of chipotle adds smoky depth to this soup, without overwhelming the dish with spice. For a different flavor profile, omit the chipotle, add shaved fennel and minced basil, and garnish with a mound of finely green and black olives.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
4 cups tomato puree
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder, or to taste
1 1/2 cup milk (preferably from pastured cows)
2 medium garlic cloves, pressed in a garlic press
4 slices pumpernickle bread
2 ounces shredded Gruyere or other Swiss cheese
Minced fresh basil leaves for garnish

1. In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat; cook onion for 3 to 5 minutes, until just tender. Add tomato puree, tomato paste and chipotle powder. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook, partly covered, for 20 minutes.
2. Transfer mixture to a food processor and puree until very smooth. Return to pot, stir in milk, and warm through on low heat. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
3. While soup is warming, preheat broiler to high. Arrange bread slices on a baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil with garlic. Spread mixture over each bread slice, sprinkle with cheese, and broil until bubbly. Remove from oven and halve each piece on the diagonal.
4. To serve, divide soup between individual bowls, garnish with minced basil, and serve with toast alongside.

This is a super-simple and basic salad: Romaine lettuce is sturdy enough to stand up to grilling, a technique that turns a summery green into a more autumn-like offering. A spicy-garlicky-creamy dressing and a light shaving of extra-sharp cheese is really all this salad needs, but fresh tomatoes and cool avocado add a nice contrast to the warm lettuce.

Serves 4

2 hearts of Romaine lettuce
olive oil for brushing
2 large garlic cloves
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
3 tablespoons homemade or high-quality mayonnaise or vegan mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Sriracha hot sauce, or to taste
1 cup small cherry tomatoes, or 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 avocado, peeled, pitted and thinly sliced lengthwise
Crumbled ricotta salata or feta cheese

1. Lightly oil grill racks and preheat grill to medium high.
2. Cut Romaine heads in half lengthwise, brush all surfaces of each half with olive oil, and grill for 4 to 6 minutes, turning occasionally.
3. While lettuce is grilling, make dressing: in a small bowl, whisk together garlic, vinegar, mayonnaise and Sriracha. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Remove lettuce from the grill and arrange one lettuce half on each of four plates. Arrange tomatoes and avocado slices around, drizzle with dressing, and crumble cheese over top. Serve immediately.

This vegan ice cream is a natural alternative to commercial ice creams. Substitute light coconut milk if that’s more to your liking; you can also use coconut sugar instead of evaporated cane juice. Yacon syrup, from a South American tuber, adds a caramel-butterscotch flavor; you can find it in the sweeteners section in many natural products stores. Finely chopping the coconut and macadamia garnish make a pretty presentation when it’s dusted on top of the yacon syrup, and toasting adds volumes of flavor.

Serves 4

2 cups coconut milk
1/3 cup goji berries
1/2 cup evaporated cane juice
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1/3 cup macadamia nuts, chopped
1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
6 tablespoons yacon syrup

1. Combine coconut milk, goji berries, evaporated cane juice, vanilla and lemon juice in a blender. Process until well blended, and small flecks of goji berries remain visible. Transfer mixture to an ice cream maker and process according to directions.
2. While ice cream is freezing, finely chop the macadamia nuts. Heat a small pan over medium-low heat and dry-toast the macadamias and shredded coconut, shaking pan constantly to prevent burning, and toasting for 1 minute or so, until golden. Remove from heat and transfer to a plate to cool.
3. When ice cream is finished processing, place scoops in each of four individual dishes. Drizzle each with 1 1/2 teaspoons yacon syrup, shower with macadamia-coconut dust, and serve immediately.