Many years ago, on a then-unknown beach in Los Cabos under a searing Mexican sun in the company of a very pleasant companion, I drank an ice-cold Coca-Cola in a glass bottle. I remember the taste of that soda all these years later: its crisp, icy sweetness, the chill of the glass bottle. For whatever reason, it rivaled my first kiss in eliciting waves of pleasure and joy. Coca-Cola north of the Mexican borders has not inspired the same reaction. It may be the tinny aftertaste imparted by the can. It may be the chemical flavor of the preservatives and high-fructose corn syrup now used. It may be, simply, the absence of the sun, the beach, the traveling companion and exotic locale and mysterious waters.
Of course, times have changed, and so has the recklessness of my youth that put me on a Mexican beach with said traveling companion in the first place. We now know more about some nasty side effects of sodas. The conventional sort contain phosphoric acid, which changes the acid balance in the blood and contributes to bone loss and osteoporosis. Many still contain sodium benzoate, a preservative that damages DNA and, when combined with ascorbic acid, can form benzene, a known carcinogen. And most are made with vast quantities of high-fructose corn syrup, a sinister concoction that makes white sugar look like a superfood. Given the hard facts, theyÕre not such soft drinks after all.
But as a long-time teetotaler who tires of club soda with a splash of cranberry, I wouldnÕt mind an occasional fizzy beverage. IÕd just prefer that it wasnÕt laced with worrisome chemicals. So it was with some eagerness that I set out to investigate a promising new crop of natural sodas, free of chemicals and scary sweeteners. HereÕs what I found.
Spritzers. It all started with IzzeÕs, that groundbreaking beverage that began as a small local business and ended up as PepsiÕs latest multi-million dollar venture. WhoÕd have thought that a simple concoction of juice and sparking water would herald a new generation of hipster sodas? Simple though it is, the formula works—and itÕs a welcome, more-natural replacement to sugary sodas. The success of IzzeÕs sparked a handful of close imitators, some nearly identical in their names and packaging. My question: why arenÕt they all organic? Noteworthy sips: R.W. Knudsen Grape Spritzer, Fizz Ed Pomegranate Cherry, Fizzy Lizzy Lone Star Grapefruit, Switch Watermelon Strawberry.
Natural sodas. Until recently, non-cola sodas tasted more like fizzy Kool-Aid than anything else. Insipid in character, annoying in their syrupy effervescence, they lacked sophistication, spunk and crisp, clean flavor. Happily, new contenders in the natural soda line are changing that profile. Quirky flavors, less sweetener, and evaporated cane juice or fruit juice instead of high-fructose corn syrup make them softer drinks suitable for grown-up palates. My favorite: Cricket Cola, a hip and healthy version that, with a squeeze of lime. ItÕs a not-bad rendition of Coca-Cola in a glass bottle. Noteworthy sips: Santa Cruz Organic Tangerine, GuS Dry Crimson Grape, Reeds Premium Ginger Brew.
Artisan
beverages. Call them designer drinks,
micro-brews, whatever you will, these sleek and pricey sodas are decidedly
different from kiddy drinks. Some have brain-boosting herbs; others sport
dressy labels, or long, lean cans encased in hip cartons. With surprising
flavors (like lavender, rhubarb and kumquat) and less sweetener, theyÕre the
kind of six-pack you tote with impunity to any BYOB. Serve them in chilled
martini glasses or champagne flutes for an extra twist on the snob factor. Noteworthy
sips: DRY Lemongrass Soda, HansenÕs Signature Soda, Cricket Microbrewed Cola,
Brain TonIQ
Energy. You could just drink coffee. But once youÕve ground
your way through enough dental work, youÕll be inclined to try a gentler method
of keeping the afternoon mental fog from rolling in. Most of the energy
beverages on the market contain various supplements touted for their long-term
energy-enhancing effects, including ginseng, B vitamins and acai. If youÕre
sensitive, check the labels: some are also laced with a pretty significant dose
of caffeine (like I said, you could just drink coffee). Noteworthy
sips: Sambazon Amazon Energy with Acai, Steaz Energy Organic Fuel, Hiball Wild
Berry.
Diet. I guess water is the best diet beverage, but a few
of these natural diet sodas are darn fine options too. Served on ice in a tall
glass, they offer gently sweet refreshment in the afternoon heat. Some are
sweetened with herbal extracts. Some are ÒliteÓ just because they contain fewer
sweeteners. Marketing slight-of-hand, or sound and true nutritional concept?
You be the judge. Noteworthy sips: Blueberry Pomegranate Diet Steaz,
KnudsenÕs Black Cherry Spritzer Light, Blue Sky Lite Jamaican Ginger Ale,
Izze-esque